Just stepping out of the plane that flew us from Toronto, Canada to Varadero, Cuba, we could tell there was a huge difference. Imagine removing all the advertisements in a major airport then shrinking it to more than ten times smaller, and you would get something that looked like the Varadero airport. Varadero is a large resort town in Cuba, second only to Havana, and was our first destination. We stayed five days in a hotel resort there, enjoying the Cuban food, culture, pace of life, location, weather, activities, and view. We visited the beach numerous times, went fishing near a bridge, passed by the centre of town to see the city life, and even got to see Buena Vista Social Club (an internationally renown Cuban band) perform!
Being native Spanish speakers my family and I were able to have some deeper conversations with the local Cuban citizens and, unfortunately, we heard that all was not well. You see, Cuba is a socialist country, meaning among other things that everyone gets paid equally through government-distributed funds. Although poverty is seemingly nonexistent as the government guarantees Cuban citizens basic food, shelter, and healthcare, those who do not or are not able to work have a difficult life. The monthly food rations given by the government consists of rice, beans, and oil portions, and no meat. To be fed well, one needs more than simply what the government gives them. For those who do work, life is still very hard. Most Cuban citizens work long hours in tourism-related jobs (which are the best paying) to support their children and family. These jobs are not easy. They require workers to know at least three languages and usually require a long commute into the city which is where tourists frequent. This means waking up very early, working a long day and then getting home quite late because of the long commute back home. Through anything, the Cuban people manage to come together and overcome these hardships, staying strong no matter what challenges life throws at them.
Next, we travelled to Trinidad where we stayed for three days in a Casa Particular, which translates to a ‘Particular House’, a local’s home. We stayed with a pair of hard-working doctors who were, as my father said, the ‘upper middle class’ of Cuba. There is little class distinction in Cuba but those with a room to offer to tourists are in a more economically beneficial situation. Although they have to pay a monthly fee and a tax to the Cuban government, they do make a bit extra, which in some cases is extremely important. A doctor’s monthly salary in Cuba is 60 CUC (the Cuban peso used by tourists), which equates to approximately 80 Canadian dollars. One story our host told us was that he had gone to work in Africa for 2 years, to help set up a clinic to treat patients with sexually transmitted infections. His incentive was a car which was promised to him by the government when he came back. He was only able to see his family one month each year he was there and when he came back after those long two years, he never did receive a car as compensation. His story made me realize how desperate the situation is for even those who are in a slightly better position. To spend two years of one’s life away from one’s family for a car may sound like an imprudent sacrifice to us but it is not abnormal in Cuba.
In Trinidad we visited an underwater cave, hiked to a waterfall, and took a boat ride to a small beach where we enjoyed some snorkeling. We had a marvelous time simply strolling through the neighbourhood plaza, taking in this different way of life which seemed to be stuck sometime in the past. The taxis that took us from place to place were old cars because imports to Cuba were extremely limited after the United States embargo. One taxi driver we met was studying English on a tablet as he waited for us, telling us that this was his ticket to a better future.
The old cars found in Cuba imported from countries such as Russia in the early 1990s are an essential form of transportation there. There were even older cars (before ~1962) imported from pre-U.S. embargo times. The lack of modern cars in Cuba creates a situation where those with a car have an advantage since they may use them as taxis, or simply as personal cars. The law of supply and demand dictates that as the quantity of a good available (supply) decreases, the price of the good increases. Therefore, the price of a car in Cuba is virtually unaffordable for many citizens. For a number of years, the only transportation method available to Cubans was the bicycle, and to travel between towns to retrieve food, the men would have to bike around 200 kilometers. Again, the Cuban people maintain a steady, friendly attitude and try not to let these problems get to them.
Next we visited Havana the capital of Cuba where we stayed for three days in a hotel. We enjoyed eating out at local restaurants, taking a tour of the city on a double decker tour bus, relaxing at the beautiful natural beaches (as opposed to Varadero’s artificially created beaches), and hearing the wonderful Cuban bands perform on the streets and at hotels. We made friends with fellow tourists from America and with many of the friendly Cubans who we entered in conversation with.
Overall, our visit to Cuba was extremely enjoyable and relaxing, as well as life changing since it gave me some insight as to how Cubans live and the hardships they face.
